HelpALittle LaosLoving Laos – A Kiwi Expat's Blog

Let me share what I’ve learned about getting from A to B in this laid-back nation, with plenty of insights about crossing those borders.

The Reality of Booking Transport

Forget what you might be used to back home. Laos operates largely offline when it comes to transport. Those handy booking sites like 12go.Asia simply don’t list the vast majority of buses here. Similarly, accommodation booking platforms tend to showcase only the pricier options in cities.

Laos is decidedly a “turn up and sort it out” kind of place. You’ll book most transport locally, on arrival, and you’ll pay in cash. It might seem a bit nerve-wracking if you’re used to planning everything in advance, but it’s actually quite liberating once you get used to it.

Border Crossings into Laos

Thailand-Laos Borders

The most popular crossings are:

• Nong Khai (Thailand) to Vientiane (Laos) – This is the busiest and most straightforward crossing, with the Friendship Bridge connecting the two countries. You can take a train from Bangkok to Nong Khai, then a shuttle bus across the bridge. Remember that you cannot bring your motorbike across, though.
• Chiang Khong (Thailand) to Huay Xai (Laos) – Popular for those heading to Luang Prabang via the slow boat down the Mekong. There’s a relatively new bridge here that’s made crossing much easier than the old ferry system.
• Chong Mek (Thailand) to Vang Tao (Laos) – Useful if you’re heading to southern Laos and the Bolaven Plateau.

At all these crossings, you’ll find visa-on-arrival services for most nationalities, but do bring US dollars and passport photos to make the process smoother.

Vietnam-Laos Borders

The situation here is a bit more complex:

• Lao Bao (Vietnam) to Dansavanh (Laos) – This is the only crossing where visa-on-arrival is consistently available. It’s relatively busy as it’s on the main route between Hue and Savannakhet.
• Nam Can (Vietnam) to Nam Phao (Laos) – Useful if travelling between Vinh and Phonsavan/Plain of Jars. No visa-on-arrival here.
• Bo Y (Vietnam) to Phou Keua (Laos) – For those heading to southern Laos from the Central Highlands. Again, no visa-on-arrival.

Remember, for all Vietnamese crossings except Lao Bao, you’ll need to arrange your Lao visa in advance at a consulate.

As mentioned earlier, bringing a motorbike from Vietnam requires legal ownership with proper registration in your name, which is nearly impossible as a tourist. You’ll also need an agent to facilitate the crossing and must re-register with Lao plates upon entry.

Cambodia-Laos Border

There’s really only one commonly used crossing:

• Stung Treng (Cambodia) to Voen Kham (Laos) – This crossing near Si Phan Don (4,000 Islands) is straightforward but relatively quiet. The good news is you can bring motorbikes across in both directions here, which is brilliant if you’re doing a larger Southeast Asian tour.

Visa-on-arrival is generally available, but the border officials occasionally like to add “special fees” – standing your ground politely usually resolves this.

China-Laos Border

With the opening of the Laos-China Railway, the Boten border crossing has become more significant:

• Mohan (China) to Boten (Laos) – The train runs directly through here, making it much more accessible than before. However, independent travel in China requires more planning due to their visa requirements.

Taxis and Ride Hailing

The good news is that ride-hailing apps have finally made their way to Laos! If you’re in Vientiane, Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang, you can use:

• inDrive (cash only, and generally the cheaper option), you get a suggested price and you choose how much you offer.
• Loca (accepts credit cards but costs more)
• Xanh SM (Vietnamese) in Vientiane and Vang Vieng, a large fleet (500) of EV cars
• Maxim is the new kid on the block in Vientiane and Luang Prabang

These apps can save you the hassle of haggling with tuk-tuk drivers, and you can set exactly where you wish to go avoiding the need to know Lao language. Tuk tuks in Vientiane are a mafia and you will not get a fair price.

Hiring a Car

Fancy driving yourself? Self-drive car rentals are available in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth the cost or the risks. Drivers will literally approach you every couple of minutes offering their services everywhere you go in Laos, often at very reasonable rates.

If you do insist on driving yourself, just know that road conditions can be challenging and local driving habits take some getting used to!

Motorbiking in Laos

Renting a motorbike within Laos is affordable, gives you freedom, and lets you explore at your own pace. I’ve had some of my best experiences here zipping around on two wheels.

However, if you’re planning on cross-border adventures with a motorbike, things get complicated and very often changes!

• Laos-Cambodia border: You can take bikes across in both directions at the main crossing near the 4,000 Islands.
• Thailand-Laos border: Unfortunately, you cannot take motorbikes between these countries in either direction.
• Vietnam-Laos border: This is possible only if you legally own the motorbike with proper registration in your name (virtually impossible as a tourist). You’ll also need an agent to help with the crossing, and upon entering Laos, you must re-register the bike with Lao plates.

Public Transport Options

The public transport network in Laos isn’t what you’d call extensive, but it gets you to most tourist destinations:

• Buses: Range from basic local services to more comfortable VIP options for longer routes. They’re inexpensive but can be very slow going especially with very poor roads in most places. As of 2025 travel times in most provinces are double what they were a few years ago.
• Minivans: Often faster than buses but more cramped. Popular for shorter routes.
• Songthaews: These converted pickup trucks with bench seating are common for short hops.
• Boats: Along the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers, slow boats are a scenic (if time-consuming) way to travel.
• Trains: The Laos-China Railway now connects Vientiane with the northern border and several stops in between, including near Luang Prabang. It’s a game-changer for north-south travel.

The lack of online booking means you’ll need to embrace a bit of spontaneity. Your guesthouse or a local travel agency can usually sort tickets for the next day’s journey, often for a small fee.

Remember that in smaller towns, transport options might run only when there are enough passengers to make it worthwhile. Patience is definitely a virtue when travelling around Laos!

Health, Laos, Luang Prabang, Travel, Vang Vieng, Vientiane

By David

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